As with the final year’s Navitimer Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Limited Edition model, Breitling’s designers searched for their inspiration in watches which were provided by the company in 1940s-1950s when their goods were mainly connected with elegance and refinement, avoid arrogance and brutality. The brand new batch of vintage-styled models continues to be considerably physically bigger compared to classic pieces from fifty years ago, although not for the reason that defiantly vulgar way because the luxury timekeepers offered ten -or perhaps five- years back by Breitling itself, along with its many competitors.
Situation, Ergonomics & Strap
At 42 millimeters across, the Centenary continues to be bigger than the usual classic dressy chronograph and also the lugs might have been a trifle shorter to help make the watch more appropriate to some wider audience, however it doesn’t look as arrogant as, say, the 2015 GT3 collection using its huge 49mm body. Also, at under 14 millimeters all the way through, it's slim enough for use with formal attire (and you may put on it with shirts with normal sleeves, too.)
The timepiece looks even slimmer than because of the ultra-low-profile bezel that houses a convex azure very. For persons having a more active lifestyle that may be a problem because the very is poorly protected against periodic bumps, but it's that rare occasion where I'd be prepared to sacrifice some security in support of appearance.
There's one little detail which i dislike relating to this new timekeeper: along side it plaque. Featuring so-known as “circular graining” finish -the typical decor the British vehicle manufacturer employs for aluminum interior parts- along with a apparently inevitable “BENTLEY” inscription, the large plaque is connected to the left side from the situation and it is the only vulgar thing about this otherwise flawlessly beautiful timekeeper.
Quilted leather strap with prominent high-contrast stitching is yet another mention of method in which Bentley loves to decorate their cars. The apparent decor may, too, raise eyebrows, but a minimum of it doesn’t look as brazen. Also, should you still believe that the leather strap looks too gimmicky, you could choose a version having a stainless-steel bracelet.
So far as ergonomics is worried, there aren't any visible issues here: all controls are very well-calculated for both appearance as well as for simplicity of use. Some persons might not like how a chronograph push-pieces don’t feel premium enough when used, but that’s a possible problem which i anticipate here.
So far as ergonomics is worried, there aren't any visible issues here: all controls are very well-calculated for both appearance as well as for simplicity of use. Some persons might not like how a chronograph push-pieces don’t feel premium enough when used, but that’s a possible problem which i anticipate here.
Mechanism
The in-house Breitling caliber B01 automatic movement was introduced about 10 years ago.
Created by Breitling to exchange the legendary -although not exclusive enough- ETA Valjoux 7750 within their chronographs, the Caliber B01 includes a more complex column-wheel chronograph design having a vertical clutch. The look isn't just more effective compared to archaic cam-and-lever layout but is another good display of Breitling’s abilities like a Manufacture: you'll need a much more costly tools and good quality control to create such mechanisms with an industrial scale.
The first couple of proprietors experienced their share of mechanical issues with the movements. Some connoisseurs don’t such as the “rough” feel from the chronograph push-pieces. Yet, generally, it’s a great movement that has the capacity to keep great time as lengthy because it is correctly serviced by qualified personnel.
Unlike Sellita movements which were designed as direct replacements for ETA calibers, the Caliber B01 boasts numerous features making it better than the legendary workhorse movement, both when it comes to ergonomics (it, for instance, enables altering the date close at :00 with no damage to the mechanism) and usefulness.
Beating in the same frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations each hour, the B01 includes a power reserve with a minimum of 70 hrs because of better efficiency along with a longer mainspring. Together they provide you with extra thirty hrs -approximately- greater than your normal ETA Valjoux 7750 making the timepiece more helpful should you not intend to put on it every day and shouldn't make use of a winder to keep it up between times of inactivity.
The truth that it's an formally COSC-certified chronometer shouldn’t enable you to get too passionate, though. It isn't the certification authority carefully examines each mechanism to be able to decide if its performance is a good example to obtain the certificate: Breitling makes too many calibers to warrant this kind of costly procedure. Yet, it’s nice to possess a particular inscription around the timekeeper’s azure back.
Beating in the same frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations each hour, the B01 includes a power reserve with a minimum of 70 hrs because of better efficiency along with a longer mainspring. Together they provide you with extra thirty hrs -approximately- greater than your normal ETA Valjoux 7750 making the timepiece more helpful should you not intend to put on it every day and shouldn't make use of a winder to keep it up between times of inactivity.
The truth that it's an formally COSC-certified chronometer shouldn’t enable you to get too passionate, though. It isn't the certification authority carefully examines each mechanism to be able to decide if its performance is a good example to obtain the certificate: Breitling makes too many calibers to warrant this kind of costly procedure. Yet, it’s nice to possess a particular inscription around the timekeeper’s azure back.
Dial & Legibility
It's the dial which makes the timepiece so interesting.
Breitling isn't the first brand to make use of wood veneer to brighten a timekeeper’s face. Yet the option of material is among individuals rare occasions where it-not only perfectly complements the general feel and look of the product, but additionally builds a good bridge between products of two legendary brands.
Bentley uses hardwood veneer to create their vehicles look much more exclusive. The California Walnut Burl looks great when put on doors, steering wheels or, essentially, every other interior surface that isn't engrossed in precious leather, nevertheless its prominent texture is much too big with regards to a timekeeper’s dial opening which are under 40 millimeters across.
Breitling were able to find wood that appears every bit as good as walnut but may be used to decorate a wrist watch: Elm Burl. Noted for its very dense patterns, it's utilized in woodworking beginning with things no more than chess pieces on and on completely to custom guitars as well as furniture. Like a number of other “organic” materials, Elm Burl has become scarcer each year, and it is getting good costly, too.
Breitling were able to find wood that appears every bit as good as walnut but may be used to decorate a wrist watch: Elm Burl. Noted for its very dense patterns, it's utilized in woodworking beginning with things no more than chess pieces on and on completely to custom guitars as well as furniture. Like a number of other “organic” materials, Elm Burl has become scarcer each year, and it is getting good costly, too.
The Elm Burl dials seem like these were initially selected for a way they play along with the red gold versions. Yet, in some way, the versions in stainless make a level more powerful impression because of the stark contrast between your cold, grey colour of the metal, and also the natural, warm appearance of the Elm Burl pattern.
Legibility is nice. Not great, actually, but good: something you can get from the classic bi-compax chronograph from the European brand.
The dial is clean enough to not be known as “busy,” even though the inevitable tachymeter scale helps make the chronograph’s face less clean when i would take care of. There's some lume in hair-thin “slits” within the hrs and minutes hands, however the Superluminova here almost appears like an afterthought: there's simply not enough for that Centenary to become legible in each and every imaginable lighting scenario.
Legibility is nice. Not great, actually, but good: something you can get from the classic bi-compax chronograph from the European brand.
The dial is clean enough to not be known as “busy,” even though the inevitable tachymeter scale helps make the chronograph’s face less clean when i would take care of. There's some lume in hair-thin “slits” within the hrs and minutes hands, however the Superluminova here almost appears like an afterthought: there's simply not enough for that Centenary to become legible in each and every imaginable lighting scenario.
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